It's been a very busy week, as expected.
-I left Tamale on Wednesday morning and arrived in Kumasi a little after noon. I met up with Seth and Solomon (some new friends) and we toured around the city and left on Thursday. We saw the sprawling Kumasi market and the Ashanti palace. It has been interesting to see the difference in architecture and landscape that happened as we moved south. Much more 'storied buildings' and dense greenery.
-On Thursday afternoon we moved on to Cape Coast to stay for a couple of nights. The beach was a welcome sight, a sort of a benchmark that we had just driven a really long distance. While in Cape Coast we saw Kakum National Forest and also the Cape Coast castle. Unfortunately, I got a crazy headache all of a sudden yesterday afternoon, but it cleared up with some pain killer and rest (I feared the return of malaria).
-Today we made our way from Cape Coast to Accra for the last stop. I am being hosted in the home of the Minister of Local Government, Mr. Daniel Nyankamawu. Everything has been going very well so far and tomorrow we make all the rounds around Accra before I finally fly out on Monday morning. This past few days have gone by way too quickly.
-As the 7-week trip finally comes to a close with my last day in Ghana being tomorrow, I have started to look back at the big picture. The things I have learned here are inseparable from me and will no doubt have an impact on my teaching. Also, the people that I have met and the kindness that I have been welcomed with has made a lasting impression that has had quite an effect on me. Also, I think my immune system has been trained to fight off some pretty wicked stuff. This will be something that I will always look back on with fondness and look forward to seeing how its effects show up in my life.
Saturday, August 2, 2008
Saturday, July 26, 2008
One week left
-I have just returned from my introduction to music notation lesson with the Baptist church. I tried to keep it as brief and simplified as possible (with the assistance of a handout, of course) so I didn't lose anybody. I think that everyone essentially 'got it' but it will take some time and review for everything to really coalesce and sink in. I was still amazed at how none of them had ever had formal music training, but did everything by ear. Keyboard, guitar, vocal harmony; everything by ear and all the tunes (traditional and contemporary) that you would hear in most any Protestant church in the US.
-Susan, Wyatt, and John left this morning, so now it's just me at the palace (plus the resident family of course). I'm looking forward to making the most of these last days that I have in Tamale, and I know that I am good hands. Mariama has already made an open invitation for me to come to the restaurant any time and it "will be taken care of." I'll also have plenty of people just stopping by every once in a while to say hello (or to ask for help with income/expenditure accounts).
-Tomorrow I will be going to a wedding. The bride is the daughter of one of Susan's elders (Jehanfo). I'm sure that it will be an entertaining event and it will be really nice to actually know some of the people that are there. There's no telling what to expect.
-I had my first taste of groundnut soup (peanut soup) this week. It reminds me of the consistency of tomato soup, but tastes like, yep...peanuts. Actually it was pretty spicy, too, but really good. It came with a piece of bone-in chicken right in the soup and a rice ball on the side. It is deceivingly filling and very rich. Still, I think I will have to try some more before my departure.
-I took my horn with me on a visit we had to a preschool earlier this week. Before the event, I was asked to write the name of the instrument on a piece of paper for the assistant principal who was going to introduce me; I clearly wrote "French horn." After the kids entertained us with dancing, singing, and poetry it was my time. The principal then got up and announced that "this is Mr. Matt Peyton and today he will be singing a song in the French language." I quickly started to correct the misunderstanding, but that only led to "He is going to play a French song with his trumpet here." Oh well. I played "Michael, Row the Boat Ashore" but in hindsight, maybe "Frere Jaques" would have been a better choice.
-Susan, Wyatt, and John left this morning, so now it's just me at the palace (plus the resident family of course). I'm looking forward to making the most of these last days that I have in Tamale, and I know that I am good hands. Mariama has already made an open invitation for me to come to the restaurant any time and it "will be taken care of." I'll also have plenty of people just stopping by every once in a while to say hello (or to ask for help with income/expenditure accounts).
-Tomorrow I will be going to a wedding. The bride is the daughter of one of Susan's elders (Jehanfo). I'm sure that it will be an entertaining event and it will be really nice to actually know some of the people that are there. There's no telling what to expect.
-I had my first taste of groundnut soup (peanut soup) this week. It reminds me of the consistency of tomato soup, but tastes like, yep...peanuts. Actually it was pretty spicy, too, but really good. It came with a piece of bone-in chicken right in the soup and a rice ball on the side. It is deceivingly filling and very rich. Still, I think I will have to try some more before my departure.
-I took my horn with me on a visit we had to a preschool earlier this week. Before the event, I was asked to write the name of the instrument on a piece of paper for the assistant principal who was going to introduce me; I clearly wrote "French horn." After the kids entertained us with dancing, singing, and poetry it was my time. The principal then got up and announced that "this is Mr. Matt Peyton and today he will be singing a song in the French language." I quickly started to correct the misunderstanding, but that only led to "He is going to play a French song with his trumpet here." Oh well. I played "Michael, Row the Boat Ashore" but in hindsight, maybe "Frere Jaques" would have been a better choice.
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
Making Contact
I haven't posted in a while for various reasons; mostly the loss of the internet for about a week, due to line problems, unpaid bills, and even the rain.
-Last week I started waking up early in the morning to take short walks in the nearby neighborhoods. It was very relaxing just to walk around for the purpose of just walking around. Also, just being able to observe how this part of the world begins the day was of interest to me.
-The last two weeks are upon me and I am really focusing in on the specifics of what I need to do. It's really funny at the same time to look back at the the plans that I had beforehand and how the realities that were presented once I arrived really called for a big overhaul. Still, the trip has been very educational and I have been able to apply my efforts to many areas.
-On Saturday, the big one hit; I got a mild case of malaria. I awoke at about 6AM with chills, fever, and a headache (never good). I took some pain medicine that marginally reduced the symptoms. I was confined to the bed all day, which was unfortunate, because on that same day was the Sister Cities of Tamale general meeting as well as a rather impressive program of traditional drumming and dancing here at the palace. However, I was comforted all day by the seemingly constant flow of visitors. Luckily, the malaria didn't 'break through' and the whole thing went away after about 24 hours.
-Yesterday I met with a couple of drummers to just sit and ask them loads of questions about traditional drumming. One of the things that I learned is that drummers have an incredible skill of talking at length about everything. I was also taught about the birth of drumming in Dagbon (this region of Ghana); Many centuries ago, a Ya Na (king of Dagbon) had a son, but while he was still very young, the child's mother died. Requiring the care of the the Ya Na's other wives, the little boy learned to move about the palace while beating a calabash bowl as a means of asking for food. Alas, drumming in Dabgon was born, along with the tradition of giving drummers something in return for their playing.
-It rained for the entire first half of the day today. There were waves when it would be a nice, soaking rain but then other times when it rained harder than I've ever seen. Surely it has been the most rain in one day since I've been here. Because of this dramatic weather, all bets are off as far as appointments made for today. A gentleman was supposed to meet me here at 1, but never showed up. Our office assistant normally reports at 9 in the morning (which actually means 9:30) but today she arrived at 2 in the afternoon. I think I'll start blaming more things on the rain.
-Last week I started waking up early in the morning to take short walks in the nearby neighborhoods. It was very relaxing just to walk around for the purpose of just walking around. Also, just being able to observe how this part of the world begins the day was of interest to me.
-The last two weeks are upon me and I am really focusing in on the specifics of what I need to do. It's really funny at the same time to look back at the the plans that I had beforehand and how the realities that were presented once I arrived really called for a big overhaul. Still, the trip has been very educational and I have been able to apply my efforts to many areas.
-On Saturday, the big one hit; I got a mild case of malaria. I awoke at about 6AM with chills, fever, and a headache (never good). I took some pain medicine that marginally reduced the symptoms. I was confined to the bed all day, which was unfortunate, because on that same day was the Sister Cities of Tamale general meeting as well as a rather impressive program of traditional drumming and dancing here at the palace. However, I was comforted all day by the seemingly constant flow of visitors. Luckily, the malaria didn't 'break through' and the whole thing went away after about 24 hours.
-Yesterday I met with a couple of drummers to just sit and ask them loads of questions about traditional drumming. One of the things that I learned is that drummers have an incredible skill of talking at length about everything. I was also taught about the birth of drumming in Dagbon (this region of Ghana); Many centuries ago, a Ya Na (king of Dagbon) had a son, but while he was still very young, the child's mother died. Requiring the care of the the Ya Na's other wives, the little boy learned to move about the palace while beating a calabash bowl as a means of asking for food. Alas, drumming in Dabgon was born, along with the tradition of giving drummers something in return for their playing.
-It rained for the entire first half of the day today. There were waves when it would be a nice, soaking rain but then other times when it rained harder than I've ever seen. Surely it has been the most rain in one day since I've been here. Because of this dramatic weather, all bets are off as far as appointments made for today. A gentleman was supposed to meet me here at 1, but never showed up. Our office assistant normally reports at 9 in the morning (which actually means 9:30) but today she arrived at 2 in the afternoon. I think I'll start blaming more things on the rain.
Monday, July 14, 2008
Welcome, welcome
With only three weeks left, I'm really focusing on making the most of my time that is left here.
-After starting some additional drumming lessons last week with the Youth Home Cultural Group, it has been interesting to focus on the differences in teaching styles that I am receiving. I have decided that even though taking the lessons first-hand has many benefits, I would like to just sit down and talk with some of the traditional musicians and discuss each of their personal learning/training experiences. I think that spending that kind of concentrated time will help me get a better overall picture of traditional music education as a supplement to the lessons that I am getting. I hope to have some of these conversations this week.
-Just this morning I went over to the junior secondary school next door to teach the "Welcome, welcome" song. They remembered me bringing my horn last week, so I will most surely have to return with it again this week. They responded relatively well to the introduction to harmony. They were able to sing the melody and bass parts simultaneously, but I had trouble adding further parts. I may try the same song again later in the week after shaking up the lesson plan.
-This week the junior secondary school is reviewing for their exams next week. Myself and the two Ghanaian university students who are staying here at the palace are going over there to help with the review (well, they are reviewing and I am teaching some enriching music classes). It is frustrating, because I realized today that this "Review Week" is little more than a week of free time. The students are supposed to be studying amongst themselves in small groups, but I don't think that happens naturally with middle school students anywhere in the world. Maybe I'll have to branch out from the music teaching and make sure that I cover some material that they will be tested on as well. It's just a little frustrating to see that frequent 'breaks' are taken by the whole class and very little supervised academic review is taking place.
-On a lighter note, we visited the Tongo Hills and Bolga this past Saturday and it was a very nice trip. It was great to see the landscape change and to really get out into the country. We didn't make it all the way to the crocodiles in Paga, but maybe I'll get to do that before I leave. Here's a picture from Tongo.
-After starting some additional drumming lessons last week with the Youth Home Cultural Group, it has been interesting to focus on the differences in teaching styles that I am receiving. I have decided that even though taking the lessons first-hand has many benefits, I would like to just sit down and talk with some of the traditional musicians and discuss each of their personal learning/training experiences. I think that spending that kind of concentrated time will help me get a better overall picture of traditional music education as a supplement to the lessons that I am getting. I hope to have some of these conversations this week.
-Just this morning I went over to the junior secondary school next door to teach the "Welcome, welcome" song. They remembered me bringing my horn last week, so I will most surely have to return with it again this week. They responded relatively well to the introduction to harmony. They were able to sing the melody and bass parts simultaneously, but I had trouble adding further parts. I may try the same song again later in the week after shaking up the lesson plan.
-This week the junior secondary school is reviewing for their exams next week. Myself and the two Ghanaian university students who are staying here at the palace are going over there to help with the review (well, they are reviewing and I am teaching some enriching music classes). It is frustrating, because I realized today that this "Review Week" is little more than a week of free time. The students are supposed to be studying amongst themselves in small groups, but I don't think that happens naturally with middle school students anywhere in the world. Maybe I'll have to branch out from the music teaching and make sure that I cover some material that they will be tested on as well. It's just a little frustrating to see that frequent 'breaks' are taken by the whole class and very little supervised academic review is taking place.
-On a lighter note, we visited the Tongo Hills and Bolga this past Saturday and it was a very nice trip. It was great to see the landscape change and to really get out into the country. We didn't make it all the way to the crocodiles in Paga, but maybe I'll get to do that before I leave. Here's a picture from Tongo.
Thursday, July 10, 2008
Keeping busy
I apologize for the delay in posting, but I've been staying very busy.
-Last week consisted of some more chiefly visits. I finally got my first taste of a kola nut that is traditionally given out during such visits. It's very bitter and instead of actually consuming the thing, I've been saving it and giving it to the people around here that actually like it.
-We have also been visiting a few local schools that have links to schools in Louisville. I took my horn along and played "Abide With Me" for the school near the palace. The students all seemed very interested in the foreign instrument. It makes me wonder how they, being accustomed to different musical sounds, perceived its tone and timbre.
-I've started having music theory lessons with the music directors of the 1st Baptist Church. They have informed me that their musicians want to be able to read music and even compose. It's an interesting challenge to teach notation to musicians who have so heavily relied on their ear. It does help that their self-developed ear-training is so good, but it is still difficult at times to translate the ink on the page into a musical thought.
-I spent most of today at the Metro Assembly Executive meeting where the MCE (mayor) of Tamale was presenting the assembly with proposals for waste management and sanitation improvements. This was a far stretch from the music side of Ghana, but still interesting. It is educational to watch the cultural differences that show up in the debates.
-Tonight I'm going to work with a local NGO that is applying for grant money to start a program in support of local female artists. We're going to go over the proposal and make sure that it is American-friendly for the donors. It should be a good time.
-Last week consisted of some more chiefly visits. I finally got my first taste of a kola nut that is traditionally given out during such visits. It's very bitter and instead of actually consuming the thing, I've been saving it and giving it to the people around here that actually like it.
-We have also been visiting a few local schools that have links to schools in Louisville. I took my horn along and played "Abide With Me" for the school near the palace. The students all seemed very interested in the foreign instrument. It makes me wonder how they, being accustomed to different musical sounds, perceived its tone and timbre.
-I've started having music theory lessons with the music directors of the 1st Baptist Church. They have informed me that their musicians want to be able to read music and even compose. It's an interesting challenge to teach notation to musicians who have so heavily relied on their ear. It does help that their self-developed ear-training is so good, but it is still difficult at times to translate the ink on the page into a musical thought.
-I spent most of today at the Metro Assembly Executive meeting where the MCE (mayor) of Tamale was presenting the assembly with proposals for waste management and sanitation improvements. This was a far stretch from the music side of Ghana, but still interesting. It is educational to watch the cultural differences that show up in the debates.
-Tonight I'm going to work with a local NGO that is applying for grant money to start a program in support of local female artists. We're going to go over the proposal and make sure that it is American-friendly for the donors. It should be a good time.
Wednesday, July 2, 2008
Still learning
Things are still moving right along and I'm experiencing new things almost daily.
-On Monday, we visited a council of elders in Tolon and it turned out to be quite an occasion. There was plenty of traditional procedure which included lots of introductions and speeches as well as drumming and dancing. Here's how the drumming/dancing works: As everyone in attendance is gathered around in a quasi-circle, the drumming troupe begins a rhythm and approaches an individual. This can be anyone from a chief to someone in the cheif's entourage or just anyone who is at the event. This approach is an invitation to dance, and like nearly all other invitations, it must be taken. As the dancer performs (a kind of rhtyhmic foot-shuffling dance) people from the crowd approach to put money (small change) into his/her hand or stick to the dancer's forehead. When the dancer is finished (after about a minute) all of the money is given to the drummers and then another person is invited to dance. I found it to be very interesting and entertaining, too. Yes, I danced.
-I had another drumming lesson yesterday and Lunaa says that he can see improvement. Hopefully I'll be ready in two week's time for the performance on the 19th. I'm very interested in the story that is behind every dance, specifically the Bamaya. From what I've heard so far, a long time ago a farmer went into the bush one night and saw some dwarves dancing this dance. He then, of course, had to bring the dance back to share with his village. That's all I've got so far, but it's enough to keep me interested to dig for more.
-Last Friday Susan received a live guinea fowl as a thank you gift in return for the gift she sent to a funeral. It was for dinner.
-On Monday, we visited a council of elders in Tolon and it turned out to be quite an occasion. There was plenty of traditional procedure which included lots of introductions and speeches as well as drumming and dancing. Here's how the drumming/dancing works: As everyone in attendance is gathered around in a quasi-circle, the drumming troupe begins a rhythm and approaches an individual. This can be anyone from a chief to someone in the cheif's entourage or just anyone who is at the event. This approach is an invitation to dance, and like nearly all other invitations, it must be taken. As the dancer performs (a kind of rhtyhmic foot-shuffling dance) people from the crowd approach to put money (small change) into his/her hand or stick to the dancer's forehead. When the dancer is finished (after about a minute) all of the money is given to the drummers and then another person is invited to dance. I found it to be very interesting and entertaining, too. Yes, I danced.
-I had another drumming lesson yesterday and Lunaa says that he can see improvement. Hopefully I'll be ready in two week's time for the performance on the 19th. I'm very interested in the story that is behind every dance, specifically the Bamaya. From what I've heard so far, a long time ago a farmer went into the bush one night and saw some dwarves dancing this dance. He then, of course, had to bring the dance back to share with his village. That's all I've got so far, but it's enough to keep me interested to dig for more.
-Last Friday Susan received a live guinea fowl as a thank you gift in return for the gift she sent to a funeral. It was for dinner.
Thursday, June 26, 2008
Progress
-Today I had my very first lesson in traditional drumming. Lunaa (the chief's drummer) is my instructor and a very good one at that. I learned three of the basic rhythms; the Jera, the Damba Sua, and the Damba Manle. Any experts out there who specialize in traditional Ghanaian drumming will have to forgive me for the spellings, which I am sure are not correct. It was funny trying to keep the children away while we were working. They wanted to come right up and touch the drum, but had to settle for just dancing around us. However, some were curious to see this white guy playing a drum, but reluctant to come to close.
-Also, I have learned that with Lunaa's position of primary drummer comes the responsibility of keeping in his memory the history of cheifs. It is his job to serve as the database of lines of succession, historic polical moves, noteworthy controversies, and other such items of historical importance. It is interesting that this traditional dual assignment of musician-historian is my no means arbitrary. I have heard about this same connection in other cultures with oral history, but it takes on such depth to see it functioning in person. It is definitely subject matter for 'music and the brain' studies.
-I have finally received my custom-made sandals from the shop down the street. I am very happy with them, but I need to wear them around to break in the leather.
-I practiced my horn today and got quite a few knocks on the door from curious listeners. Fati also let me know that she heard music coming from my room and was very pleased because she just "loves music so much." Again, I realized then all the things I want to share while I'm here. Settling in to the new environment threw me off for a bit, but now I think that my horn will be going with me almost everywhere I go. I am especially looking forward to taking it along to the primary school visits.
-Also, I have learned that with Lunaa's position of primary drummer comes the responsibility of keeping in his memory the history of cheifs. It is his job to serve as the database of lines of succession, historic polical moves, noteworthy controversies, and other such items of historical importance. It is interesting that this traditional dual assignment of musician-historian is my no means arbitrary. I have heard about this same connection in other cultures with oral history, but it takes on such depth to see it functioning in person. It is definitely subject matter for 'music and the brain' studies.
-I have finally received my custom-made sandals from the shop down the street. I am very happy with them, but I need to wear them around to break in the leather.
-I practiced my horn today and got quite a few knocks on the door from curious listeners. Fati also let me know that she heard music coming from my room and was very pleased because she just "loves music so much." Again, I realized then all the things I want to share while I'm here. Settling in to the new environment threw me off for a bit, but now I think that my horn will be going with me almost everywhere I go. I am especially looking forward to taking it along to the primary school visits.
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